JF sends me this image of what she thinks is a guard for Chinese fingernails, smuggled out of China by her great aunt in the 1950’s. JF wonders what it is and if it’s worth anything.
This, JF, is a fingernail protector, in silver over-laid with gold (called gold vermeil) from the late 19th century, inset with semi-precious stones. Fingernail protectors shouldn’t be difficult for us to imagine today. Acrylic nail salon that does much the same thing, emphasize one’s fingernails and keep them to a noticeably long length.
Long fingernails emphasize the length of a long finger, which some may consider attractive. But this tradition goes back hundreds of years. Long fingernails mean you don’t do manual labor. In fact if your fingernails are really long, it’s not possible to do much with your hands at all. A Chinese high-born Manchu Court lady may have worn one of these, or if she really lived a life of absolute luxury. She may have worn 10 of these.
Chinese Lady Nail Care
The era is late Qing, the last half of the 19th century until 1912. These fingernail guards were a feature of the Manchurian high culture. A lady took great care to emphasize her nails, a sign of her ability to rely upon servants and not perform manual tasks. Early in China, around 3000 BC, long fingernails were such a sign. Before finger guards Chinese high-born ladies made a colored lacquer to strengthen and color their nails. They made this compound from gum Arabic, egg whites, gelatin and beeswax. Or a lady asked her servants to prepare mashed rose petals, orchids and impatiens, and combine these with alum to color and strengthen the nail.
In 600 BC during the Chou Dynasty, Chinese royalty used gold and silver to enhance their nails. In the 15th century Ming Dynasty red and black became the colors of choice. During that time both Chinese and Egyptian royalty used red nails to signify top status. For example Cleopatra wore a deep rust red. In China no low born woman was permitted any color but the palest hues. No matter your station, if your chose the color the king or queen chose, they might put you to death.
The Chinese have always respected the human fingernail as an indicator of the health of a person in medical palmistry. Today a young man will grow one fingernail as long as the last knuckle on the ring finger to indicate intelligence and virility. The Chinese version of vampires, called “hopping corpses” have very long fingernails and tongues, and are dressed in the style of a Qing Dynasty high official with gorgeous red and yellow silk robes, in the Manchu style.
JF, your fingernail protector has been made into a brooch which is fairly typical of these obsolete fashion statements. It’s worth about $400.